Frequently Asked Questions

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What Hydroseeding Is, What You Receive, Who We Are, & Why We’re Different

  • Hydroseeding is a fast and cost efficient way to grow a healthy lawn, restore an existing lawn, control erosion, provide stabilization, beautify terrain, and rebuild habitats—customized to the unique needs of any property (residential, commercial, municipal, and wild).

    Whether you’re dealing with bare soil, sloped terrain, damaged ecosystems, or new or existing construction, our specialized seed blends, weed controls, fertilizers, and mulch mixtures promote strong root development and even growth.

    Unlike traditional dry seeding, drill seeding, or expensive sod, hydroseeding delivers professional-grade results at a lower cost, making it ideal for residential, commercial, municipal, and wild landscapes.

    Our services include:

    If you’re in the market to plant almost anything almost anywhere for almost any reason, we here at GreenAcres Hydroseeding have you covered, and because we take deep pride in our work, use the finest ingredients, and offer the best warranties (we’re in this together), we work hard to ensure that our results are 100% reliable and second to none.

  • Unless you specify otherwise, all of the following goodies are included in your lawn hydroseeding package  by default, which is second to none in both quality and guarantees across the industry:

    • Golf Course Seed (Rye / Kentucky Blue Blend)

    • Tenacity (The Most Robust Weed Control Available)

    • Two Week Starter Fertilizer

    • Three Month Extended Release Fertilizer

    • High Quality Wood Fiber Mulch (For Structural Integrity)

    • Tackifiers (To Hold All of the Above Together)

    • A Full 6 Month Warranty

    • 3 Inches of Growth in 3 Weeks Guarantee (Between May 15th and September 15th)

    All of the above ingredients are layered twice, ensuring total saturation of every square inch of your lawn. We use the best ingredients, and have the best warranty in the industry. As a result, we do not compete with other hydroseeders, we compete with sod.

  • Yes! We consider your lawn / project a partnership, and we fully warranty all of our work for a full 6 months. If you have any problems at all, we are here for you, just give us a call. We want your project to be a success and we are in this together.

  • We use the best ingredients, applied double-thick, and have the best warranty in the industry. Our competitors use cheaper ingredients spread out in the thinnest of layers and often have a tiny two week warranty or none at all.

    This vast gulf in quality between us and everyone else means we do not compete with other hydroseeders, rather we compete with sod.

  • Glad you asked, we would love to hear from you. Here is how to reach us:

    We look forward to meeting you.

Advantages of Hydroseeding, Quality of Our Materials, Timeline for Growth & Re-Growth

  • Hydroseeding delivers a thick, vibrant lawn for less than ¼ the cost of sod, meanwhile the quality of the grass we use is golf-course grade and the best available, while sod farmers buy the cheapest seed they can get away with.

    In addition, sod is grown elsewhere and transplanted — which can lead to plant shock. Hydroseeding is applied directly to your soil, allowing grass to grow in place and adapt naturally to the environment. No shock, no setbacks.

    Finally, when sod is harvested, its roots are cut short, which weakens the plant and makes it harder for the grass to “take” after installation. Conversely, hydroseeded lawns develop deep, healthy root systems from the start which gives them access to deep moisture and hard to reach nutrients — making them far more drought tolerant, robust, resilient, and reliable.

  • Hydroseeding, when compared to dry seeding, delivers:

    • Quicker germination

    • Better moisture retention

    • Better seed to soil contact

    • Adheres (sticks) to the soil, allowing for hillsides and narrow areas to be seeded without issue.

    • Includes fertilizers, weed control, mulch (for water retention and stabilization), and tackifiers (to hold it all together.

    When compared to merely covering your ground with seed, there is no contest: hydroseeding gives you guaranteed nearly weed-free results that far outstrip anything broadcast seeding can offer.

  • For new and existing lawns, we have the ability to seed any type of grass desired, just let us know your preference.

    However, by default, we use a proprietary blue/rye blend designed specifically for the Treasure Valley and certified weed-free. Our blend is pulled from years of experience dealing with lawns in the Treasure Valley and is by far what grows best in our climate and leads to a lush, full lawn that you will enjoy for years to come.

    This is highest quality grass seed available on the market: A professional-grade, drought-tolerant, disease-resistant turf grass seed, filtered and coated for guaranteed germination and root growth. Simply the toughest, strongest golf-course seed available on the market today.

  • Tenacity. It a is plant-based, non-toxic, powerhouse of a pre-emergent. It is also the most robust and expensive product available on the market for preventing weeds from sprouting and guaranteeing a weed-free lawn almost every time.

    And most importantly, it works extremely well so long as our prepping guidelines have been followed. If they have, in almost every case, unwanted weeds will not grow in your personal golf-course, AKA, lawn.

  • We use both a combination of immediate and slow-release fertilizers that not only provide your lawn with all of the nutrients that it needs for three full months, but also stimulates rapid growth. A quickly grown lawn is a healthy lawn and will do a much better job of keeping out unwanted weeds.

    We are the only hydroseeding company in Idaho that includes both of these fertilizers, and including them instills results that are golf-course grade and second to none.

  • Yes! We offer organic fertilizers which can set your mind at ease. Just let our team know your preference when setting up your appointment.

  • While many of our competitors use cheaper paper, we use a high quality wood fiber mulch. Wood fiber lasts far longer than paper mulch, binds better with the soil and the other ingredients, and does a much better job of holding in moisture which is crucial for attaining the best hydroseeding results in our dry climate.

    All of the above create an enhanced environment for seed germination leading directly to lawns that are golf-course grade and second to none.

  • Yes! We offer a variety of lawn restoration services which can:

    • Revive damaged areas, bringing back a lush, green appearance

    • Dramatically improve soil health for stronger, more resilient turf

    • Reduce weeds by creating thick, healthy grass that crowds them out

    All of these things will greatly boost your property’s curb appeal, while restoring your lawn’s recreation value and potential.

    Please see this guide for more information:

  • Yes! We have some phenomenal optional ingredients that can supercharge the health of your new - and even your already existing - lawn:

    • Root Stimulant: Specialized hormone that promotes a 10x increase in root development in the first year.

    • Jump Start: Adds living microbes that perpetually work to condition and improve soil quality. Reduces compaction and accelerates plant growth.

    • Biotic Earth: Organic topsoil that drastically increases soil water holding capacity, breaks down compaction, and adds natural growth stimulants.

    • Aquagel: For areas without sprinkler coverage, this super-absorbent gel holds up to 400 times its weight in water and releases it slowly over time to ensure new plants get the moisture they need

    These optional products are outstanding and can be ordered individually, or combined to supercharge your soil into an absolute powerhouse of nutrition and aeration (aeration allows your roots to freely roam throughout the earth, finding once unavailable sources of moisture and nutrients) for your soil and lawn.

  • We have refined the seed growing process to the point where we can do this consistently every time.

    Quite simply, heat is our best friend. (this is why the guarantee is only provided between May 15th and Sept 1st). The hotter it is, the faster your lawn will grow, and hydroseeding creates the ideal growing environment so long as all of the prepping and watering guidelines are followed.

    When done right, hydroseeding offers higher quality native results than any other type of lawn delivery: sod, dry (broadcast) seeding, and drill seeding.

    We at GreenAcres Hydroseeding are passionate about what we do, and we do it right!

  • Here is a timeline of your new lawn coming to life:

    • Week 1: Hydroseed color will fade from green to tan/dirt color. You will notice a few half-inch green shoots here and there.

    • Week 2: You will wake up to find green shoots everywhere, ranging between 0 and 2 inches tall.

    • Week 3: Grass growth should become more uniform across your yard, and should reach heights up to 3 inches tall.

    • Week 4: Most of the seed will have germinated. Congratulations! You have a new lawn.

    At less than 1/4th the cost of sod with the highest quality golf-course seed, native germination, and a short 4 week incubation, GreenAcres Hydroseeding is the clear superior choice.

  • For new and established lawns, hydroseed typically fully germinates in 3–5 weeks under ideal conditions. The warmer the weather the faster your lawn will grow, and as such, we guarantee three inches of growth in three weeks between May 15th and September 15th. During this period, by week 4, you will be mowing for the first time - and once done - your golf-course lawn will then be ready for recreation.

    For less than ¼ the cost of sod, the highest quality seed available, and with quick germination combined with better, native, weed-free results, there really is little reason to pay more.

    Full root establishment takes until the following season.

  • For new and existing lawns, your new grass can withstand light traffic after 3 inches of growth (typically 3 weeks), and can withstand regular traffic after the first mowing at 3+ inches. At this point your golf-course lawn will be ready for recreation.

    Please keep people and pets off the newly seeded area until the grass reaches three inches tall (except for necessary watering or sprinkler adjustments).

  • Yes! Your pets and wildlife are perfectly safe. All of our ingredients are non-toxic once they dry, and will cause no harm to animals.

Hydroseeding Core Services: Erosion, No-Mow, Wildflowers, Shade, Pasture, & Drought Tolerant Solutions

  • Yes! Our hydroseeding blends are designed to rapidly germinate and dig deep root structures that develop quickly and provide the stabilization needed to effortlessly hold river banks and hillsides in place.

    Learn more about our erosion control and soil stabilization services in this guide.

  • Yes! Our favorite no-mow grass is the gorgeous Scottish Links, but we can procure and hydroseed any no-mow grass your style requires.

    No-mow grasses typically grow long and then lean over giving your yard, berm, or terrace the alluring curb appeal of an Irish hillside blowing in the wind.

    Learn more about our no maintenance no-mow services in this guide.

  • Yes! We typically use a grass called creeping-red-fescue for these projects, which is a beautiful shade grass that can thrive even in the shadiest outdoor conditions.

  • Yes! We have a beautiful blend of wildflowers in stock and have done many customized wildflower projects that turned out stunning. If you have specific requirements, simply provide us a list of specific flowers and we will get them for you!

    Learn more about our wildflower services in this guide.

    Something we’ve learned: few things can surpass the beauty of wildflowers rolling in the wind.

  • Yes! We offer a healthy pasture blend by default which is suitable for most animals, or we can source any specific grasses and create any plant blends your animals require.

    Pasture grass also tends to be a cheaper option then hydroseeding with our default golf-course grasses.

    Learn more about our pasture grass services in this guide.

  • Yes, often! We have native Idaho dryland and drought tolerant fescue grasses in stock, and can order anything else required.

    Once established, these grasses require far less water than lawn or turf grasses and are often used to repair the Idaho countryside where sprinkler systems are not available.

    Pro-Tip: When choosing hydroseeding for areas without sprinkler systems, consider our optional product Aquagel in order to help ensure operational success:

    • Aquagel: This super-absorbent gel holds up to 400 times its weight in water and releases it slowly over time to ensure new plants get the moisture they need

    Alas, due to our dry climate, Aquagel is pretty much essential to ensure new seed is not lost in locations lacking sprinkler coverage.

    Learn more about our native dryland grass in this guide.

  • No. We can hydroseed all grass and wildflower types. If it can fit through our half-inch hose nozzle, we can hydroseed it. This includes:

    • All grass types

    • All wildflower types

    • And many other plants

    If you have a dream involving seed, we can likely help make it a reality.

  • Not typically. We have a variety of vehicles, hoses, cannons, and equipment that can be mixed and matched to reach almost any area in need of hydroseeding.

Hydroseeding Best Practices, Expectations, Weed, & Watering

  • Once your newly established / mended lawn reaches 3+ inches of height it is ready for its first mow. This is very healthy for your baby grass as it stimulates root development.

    Avoid heavy riding mowers at this stage, and be sure to bag all grass clippings for the first three mowings. Frequent mowing (once a week) encourages thick growth. Be sure to keep your lawnmower blades sharp and never remove more than 1/3 of grass height.

  • Our ingredients include the most robust weed pre-emergent available on the market which - when your soil is prepped correctly - can guarantee a weed free lawn nearly every single time.

    However, if you have weeds of any kind, please do not use any weed-killing product on your lawn until it has been mowed three times (typically after 6 to 7 weeks), as the poison may kill your new lawn as well. If you have crabgrass, be sure to use a preventer before July 15th to remove it.

  • Thinner grass should fill in with regular mowing and fertilization, however a common problem for poor growth is these areas are usually receiving uneven water distribution from your sprinkler system (too much or too little).

    To check: place shallow bowls in both the lush and thin areas, run your sprinklers for a few minutes, and compare the water levels. In many cases these levels will be different. To fix: simply adjust your sprinklers until the thin growing areas receive the same amount of water as the lush areas using the water levels in the bowls as a guide.

    Pro-Tip: To avoid unnecessary damage when adjusting your sprinklers before your grass has grown 3 inches, please try to limit traffic to and from your nozzles and use the same footprints to travel back and forth.

    Pro-Tip: Shaded areas typically need a bit less water, while sunny areas and areas near concrete, stone, or brick require a bit more to compensate for the heat absorption during the day and its release at night.

    Please see this sprinkler guide for more details.

  • Your newly hydroseeded / renovated lawn contains all of the fertilizer needed for three whole months. After that time, your lawn will greatly benefit from regular feeding.

    After 10–12 weeks, it is a great idea to apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer (18–32 range) to maintain its lush green color and promote thick and healthy growth. Repeat every 6–8 weeks between April and October.

  • ‍The two main reasons are soil temperature and your sprinkler system. The warmer the soil, the quicker the grass grows, as such, sunnier parts of your lawn will grow faster than shadier areas.

    We see new lawns that struggle because of either over or under-watering. The challenge with sprinkler systems is that it can be difficult to obtain uniform coverage and as such both over-watered and under-watered areas will not grow as well. For best results, please calibrate your sprinkler system so that every part of your lawn stays moist and receives the same amount of water. If any part of your lawn drys out during the first few weeks, unfortunately this part may die.

    Please see this watering guide for more details.

  • For new and existing lawns, the warmer it is, the quicker your grass will grow. Speed of growth is the most critical element in keeping uninvited weeds out. For this reason, summer is optimal season and environment to grow and rebuild a new or exiting lawn.

    Because of the warmer temperatures, we can and do guarantee three inches of growth in three weeks between May 15th and September 15th. However we can still hydroseed from the first day of spring all the way until October 11th and guarantee results, as any un-germinated seed will simply lie dormant during these times, if it is too cold to grow (below 50°F), and will await optimal temperatures (above 50°F).

    Pro-Tip: Warmer temperatures during our three inches of growth guarantee window do require more water and are more unforgiving if you miss watering. If you let your newly seeded lawn dry out when it is 100 degrees in the first couple of weeks, you will likely lose your lawn, so to prevent this please follow our sprinkler guide as closely as you can.

    Pro-Tip: If the air temperature if above 50°F, the hydroseed must be kept damp via sprinklers or it will die. If the air temperature is below 50°F, watering is not needed.

  • Our season typically runs from the first day of spring all the way to October 11th. We can seed as early in the spring as you would like, however the grass will not germinate and grow if the temperature of the soil is below 56 degrees. In this case the hydroseed will simply lie dormant, safe and sound, until the weather warms up. Also, in general, the cooler it is, the longer it will take for your lawn to establish, and yet the sooner we hydroseed, the faster you will have it in this or the next calendar year.

    Depending on the weather, we can typically still guarantee results if we hydroseed your lawn by October 11th. After this we can still work for you, however the weather becomes too variable to offer a guarantee or provide a free warranty—you can purchase a warranty during this time, however.

  • ‍Due to our dry climate, during the first season consistent watering is absolutely crucial to get your new lawn established or your existing lawn repaired. Hydroseed is a live product that needs to stay moist. If it dries out, the seed will likely die. For this reason, and depending on the current temperature and your sprinkler type (rotating vs pop-up heads), we recommend watering in short bursts up to 7 times a day.

    Pro-Tip: Our recommendations are highly variable based on up-to-the-minute temperatures, so please watch your thermometers and weather reports carefully and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

    Pro-Tip: Sunny areas and areas near concrete, stone, or brick will dry out faster than shaded areas, so be sure to monitor and adjust watering accordingly.

    Pro-Tip: Extending your sprinkler distribution a few inches beyond your lawn will ensure your bordering grass will get the water it needs.

    Please read this sprinkler guide carefully for more information.

  • Yes! We have had many successful projects where sprinklers were not available, however meticulous hand-watering on the same schedule outlined in this watering guide is required. Watering by hand is more work, but the results will be golf-course grade and far better than sod at less than ¼ the cost.

    In addition, we have an optional ingredient that can ease some of the watering requirements (this also works great for dryland projects):

    • Aquagel: For areas without sprinkler coverage, this super-absorbent gel holds up to 400 times its weight in water and releases it slowly over time to ensure new plants get the moisture they need.

  • The best practice is to apply a winterizing fertilizer on the final day of autumn. These fertilizers can be found at most retailers which sell plant products and will make a big positive difference for your new lawn next spring.

  • You will want to continue watering your lawn if the temperature is above 50°F. While above this temperature the soil must be kept moist.

    Once the temperature drops below 50°F, no further watering is needed until it rises again past it again. Please keep a close eye on these temperatures during the first year, and adjust your watering rates accordingly.

    More information on the crucial watering schedules for hydroseeding can be found in this extensive guide.

  • We certainly can, just:

    Give us a call or send a text message to: 208-724-0416

    Or send an email to: info@greenacresid.com

    If we seeded your lawn in the last six months, you are fully covered under our warranty, and even if not, we are still here to help.

  • Absolutely! Just let us know before your visit or when we are there and we will leave you with a bag, or you can setup an appointment to pick one up from our headquarters.

  • Hydroseeding involves spraying our seed, weed control, and fertilizer mixture with high-pressure equipment (70+ psi), which can occasionally overspray onto unintended surfaces.

    The good news—hydroseed is biodegradable and won’t stain. Any overspray can be rinsed away easily with light pressure. Just please take care not to wash seed off intended areas.

Hydroseeding Sprinkler Configuration, Soil Preparation Best Practices

  • ‍When setting up your sprinkler system, please run your sprinklers for a full cycle and then check where the water is and is not going based on the dampness of your soil, and then adjust them until every area receives the same amount, keeping in mind that sunny areas and areas near concrete, brick, and stone will dry out faster than shaded areas and require a bit more water.

    It is crucial that all hydroseeded areas get regular water and that the seed stays moist during the day and does not dry out. Please study this watering guide carefully for more information on sprinkler setup and watering schedules.

  • Yes! We have had many successful projects where sprinklers were not available, however meticulous hand-watering on the same schedule outlined in this watering guide is required. Watering by hand is more work, but the results will be golf-course grade and far better than sod at less than ¼ the cost.

    In addition, we have an optional ingredient that can ease some of the watering requirements (this also works great for dryland projects):

    • Aquagel: For areas without sprinkler coverage, this super-absorbent gel holds up to 400 times its weight in water and releases it slowly over time to ensure new plants get the moisture they need

  • Properly prepared soil will directly reflect the health and appearance of the lawn for years to come. At a minimum, our process requires loosely raked surface free of existing vegetation and debris to apply the hydroseed mix.

    It is imperative that the soils surface is bare and that all weeds and rocks - golf-ball sized or bigger - are removed before we arrive.

    It is best to rake up all debris after weed removal and bag it so that you don't leave weed seed on the ground. The hydroseeding mixture (called a slurry) comes out of the hose with the consistency of a thick pea soup and this needs to make contact with the soil for the grass seed to germinate and grow.

    Please read this prepping guide carefully for more information, as your lawn's quality is directly linked to how well the soil is prepared before hydroseeding.

  • As soon as possible! Waiting longer runs the risk of weeds taking hold of your freshly prepped soil. In fact, you should already have us scheduled to come out for the day after prep-work is finished to ensure our fantastic weed pre-emergent can shine and weeds are not allowed to flourish.

  • Timing is important, please try to ensure all of the following steps are completed before we arrive, and please schedule our arrival to converge within a day or two of their completion—otherwise your grass will grow taller - and weeds may grow back - before we can apply the restoration:

    • First: please treat your weeds with a herbicide and then remove them.

      Pro-Tip: When using a soil-active herbicide such as 2-4-D we require 10 days distance before hydroseeding. When using a non-soil active herbicide such as Round-Up, hydroseeding can commence in as little as 49 hours.

    • Second: please check your sprinklers for even water distribution using shallow bowls spread across your lawn and re-calibrate them if they are uneven. See our sprinkler guidelines for more information.

    • Third: please cut your lawn as low as possible (2+ inches) and remove all grass clippings

    • Fourth: please de-thatch your lawn using a dethatcher (available for rent at many plant focused retailers) or heavily rake it to remove all debris—Anything aside existing grass that prevents the new seed from making soil contact should be removed.

    • Fifth: For any areas that are bare dirt, please use a hoe to break up the soil and then smooth it back out, this will allow the new seedlings to take root.

    Once these steps are followed, your lawn is now ready for restoration!

  • ‍Potentiall yes, as a high percentage of turf problems can be traced to - or caused by - a poor soil environment. Construction sites, for instance, can become severely compacted by machinery resulting in a loss of space between soil particles which impedes the flow of air and water along with the grassroots' ability to penetrate the soil. In these cases, the addition of a few inches of topsoil over the top of compacted soils does little to improve the situation, resulting in a shallow-rooted lawn that is highly susceptible to drought during the summer and flooded roots during the winter.

    The best approach to correct this situation is to till decomposed organic matter into the existing soil (example compost, peat moss, etc.). If this approach is not possible, the second option would be to import and till in at least five inches of topsoil. If neither option is available, we can include the optional products, Biotic Earth and Jump Start, which are hyper-rich soil conditioners that, when combined, can eliminate the need for tilling and importing topsoil or organic matter. Please read our prepping guide for more information.

  • If your soil is hard-packed and you cannot dig a hole in it with your heel, you probably need to either rototill it or bring in at least four inches of new topsoil. This will improve drainage and aeration allowing baby grassroots to work their way unencumbered into the earth.

    There is a reason why grass won't grow on concrete, and if your soil feels like concrete, you probably won't have the beautiful lawn you imagined. Please read the following detailed guide for more information on how to prepare for hydroseeding.

  • The short answer is probably not for weeds less than a quarter inch tall. Our hydroseed mix contains (unless otherwise requested) a special powerhouse pre-emergent that can kill smaller weeds while preventing everything other than our grass seed from germinating.

    This plant-based weed control is both a pre and post emergent, and is effective on most weed varieties. As a result, immature weeds will very likely die off within a few days of our seeding process.

    (Please note this pre-emergent typically only lasts for about three weeks while your new lawn is being established.)

  • ‍Please do not use any weed treating chemicals that are classified as a pre-emergent or have a residual herbicide. These will prevent new grass from growing.

    Pro-Tip: 2-4-D along with the most common weed killers are soil active, and can only be used at a minimum of ten days before hydroseeding.

    Round-Up and Spectracide are NOT soil active and can be used as little as 48 hours before hydroseeding. These non-soil active products are considered the best and safest options to use when treating weeds before hydroseeding.

    Pro-Tip: Weed killing lawn chemicals work by making direct contact with plant foliage, so please do not cut any weeds or grasses that you want to remove before spraying them as this decreases their surface area and greatly limits herbicide absorption. There is no benefit to spraying weed killers on bare dirt.

    Pro-Tip: Surfactants (wetting agents) will greatly increase the effectiveness of whichever weed killing product you choose. These can be found at D&B Supply, Farmer Supply, Steve Riggins, Zamzows and other retailers.

    You can find more information on eliminating weeds in this guide.

  • That depends on the weed type. Many common weeds are killed simply by removing the top of the plant. However some weeds with complex root structures (tap roots for example) can only be killed by proper spraying.

    These weeds include; dandelions, thistle and morning glory and most weed grasses.

    It is highly recommend that if these weeds are present that you treat them with a non soil active herbicide such as Round-Up or Spectracide at least 49 hours before hydroseeding.

    For more information on weed mitigation, please see this guide.

  • If a non soil-active herbicide is used (such as Round-Up or Spectracide), it is safe to hydroseed after 48 hours have passed.

    If a soil-active herbicide is used such as 2-4-D and most other common weed killers, it will not be safe to hydroseed for ten days after application, as the lingering poison will kill the new grass.

    You can find more information on the best practices to eliminate weeds in this guide.

Hydroseeding Appointment Scheduling, Travel Distance, Property Access, Hours of Operation

  • We will ask for:

    • The total area needing hydroseeding measured in square footage / acreage

    • The address of the project and the date work is needed

    • The type of project:

      • Lawn installation

      • Lawn Repair & Restoration

      • Erosion Control

      • Environment Restoration

    • Turf Requirements (Type of Grass)

    • Name, Phone Number, and Email Address

    Once provided, we will gladly get you on our schedule.

  • Our schedule is always in flux, so typically the sooner you get scheduled the better chance you will have of guaranteeing a slot on the date you prefer. Still, we can typically get your project finished within 1-3 weeks of scheduling an appointment.

    Pro-Tip: Scheduling hydroseeding for the day after your prepping is slated to be completed gives you the best chance at avoiding unwanted weeds which will begin germinating immediately. Once ready for us, the sooner we get there and hydroseed your property, the better chance our weed pre-emergent has at providing you with a guaranteed weed free lawn.

  • Nope, many of our clients are not home. However hydroseeding is a very cool process to watch, so we recommend you not miss it!

  • No problem! Life and soil prepping are both inherently unpredictable. There are no charges for rescheduling your hydroseeding appointment so long as you give us 24 hours notice. Just give us a call and we will gladly find another slot for you: 208-724-1416

    You may also reschedule at no charge when we confirm your appointment on the afternoon before arrival.

  • Yes! In most cases we will gladly travel from our headquarters in the Treasure Valley to most places in Idaho and Eastern Oregon.

    Just please be aware that there is a trip fee involved for any projects greater than 30 miles from Meridian Idaho. These fees are based on both distance and elevation, so please contact our office for more specific information (208-724-0416)

  • Thank you for asking, that helps! At the very least, we need an opening large enough to pull a hose through, or a clear line of sight to use our canon.

    Our equipment is pretty big so anything you can do to increase our access - either for parking our equipment or pulling our hose - is gratefully appreciated.

  • Once your appointment has been scheduled we will reach out to you the day before in order to confirm you are ready for us. Once you give the ‘go ahead’ we will provide a two hour time window and arrive during it the following day.

    You can expect to see a giant green truck appear with very nice men emerging to mix the ingredients, pull hose, and paint your lawn with the best grass seed, weed control, and fertilizers available on the market.

    We look forward to seeing you and transforming your yard into a golf-course!

  • Good question, this helps us out! If it is preventing easy access to the areas in need of hydroseeding, yes please!

    Our equipment is quite large so anything you can do to increase our access - either for parking or hose pulling - is sincerely appreciated.

  • Our first appointment in the mornings is 7am at the earliest, and our last can be as late as when the sun goes down, unless heat is a concern, which unfortunately, it often is.

  • Our office is open for calls, emails, and text messages Monday through Friday 8AM to 6PM.

    Our hydroseeding team works Monday through Friday from sunrise til mid-afternoon or even later in mild temperatures.

  • We do not work on weekends unless absolutely necessary due to weather delays, as hydroseeding projects are quite labor intensive and our teams need the rest.

    We do not work on holidays and we hope you don’t either.

Hydroseeding Costs, Potential Additional Fees, Discounts, Taxes, & Billing

  • Our team will invoice you once your project is completed. The payment terms are same day, and four weeks later you will have a shining new golf-course grade, better than sod-quality lawn.

  • Our pricing schedule for our default golf-course rye grass is based on square footage with a minimum charge of $475 for 100 to 3,300 square feet. After that, pricing starts at 14 cents per square foot from 3,301 to 10,000, and decreases one cent every additional 10,000 square feet after, up to an acre.

    Specialty grasses and special orders use a different pricing schedule, so please give us a call for those.

    Trip fees (any project 30+ miles from Meridian, ID) vary based on distances and elevations, so please call us to get an accurate quote. (208-724-0416).

    There are also additional charges for:

    • Projects requiring more than 200' of hose

    • Projects requiring multiple hose pulls

    • Hillside slopes of more than ten degrees

    • Trip charge for distances greater than 30 miles from Meridian, Idaho

    • Tank cleaning fee of $175 when switching grasses

    • Requested unique seed variations and custom blends

    At GreenAcres our objective is to provide the best possible hydroseeding services at the lowest possible prices. The above fees are fairly rare and are only charged when needed to offset our own expenses.

  • There are no hidden fees, however unfortunately some projects require more time and labor than others. In the following cases, you can expect to pay a bit more:

    • Projects requiring more than 200' of hose

    • Projects requiring multiple hose pulls

    • Hillside slopes of more than ten degrees

    • Trip charge for distances greater than 30 miles from Meridian, Idaho

    • Tank cleaning fee of $175 when switching grasses

    • Requested unique seed variations and custom blends

    Our goal is to provide the best hydroseeding services available at the lowest possible prices. The above fees are rare and are only charged when needed to offset our own costs.

  • We do quite often. Please mention your status when you call (208-724-0416) or use our we interface to set up your appointment.

  • We would like to but that given each project is unique, we typically do not accept advanced payment because costs can vary based on numerous factors.

  • Good news, because we offer a service, there are no taxes charged!

    (Decades ago when we began this journey we were as surprised and delighted by this news as you are right now.)

  • We accept all major credit / debit cards, cash, and personal checks.

    (There is a 3% fee for using a credit / debit card that is passed onto the payment processors.)